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Searching for direction in Yosemite
One goal from 2012 was to spend the glorious Rocktober in Yosemite. So when Fall came around I refused to do anything else and managed to get four weekends in a row of time in the Valley. Yet with all...
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Mental Training and Running Up Steep Mountains
As Luke mentioned, we recently had the opportunity to take Arno Ilgner’s Falling and Commitment Clinic. I learned a lot of skills that I was able to start directly applying to my climbing, but I’ve...
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The Liberty Cap Project
The months of 2013 have blurred together and the routine of daily life has been flying by. It has been a crazy year so far and I can barely believe it is already my birthday. Every year I take a look...
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Route Beta: Free Climbing Scarface on Liberty Cap
I couldn’t really believe it. On only the second trip of the season I had climbed half of the route clean. Sure I hadn’t lead all of those pitches yet, but I knew that I could. Getting over the mental...
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Just your average everyday Yosemite ultramarathon
My Squamish 50 mile race is coming up sooner than I’d like to admit and I needed a big training run before hand, so I planned a mega linkup of trails that would be a perfect 50k training run. I have...
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First Free Ascent of Scarface on Liberty Cap
Ben on the first pitch of Scarface It is almost impossible for me to understand how we prepare and execute in moments of doubt and uncertainty. But when all the pieces fell into place instead of being...
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Dawn Wall 2013 Videos
Tommy on one of the crux pitches of the Dawn Wall 2013 was a great year and one that I still need to reflect on. One of the most inspiring things has been the ongoing efforts to free climb the Dawn...
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Big Routes, Big Questions
Success has been a leaf blowing in the breeze. I see it dancing around in the air, and I jump like a child trying to catch it. Failure is the ground that I return to after each try. Each time I do...
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NIAD for my Birthday
My friend Ben often talked about the fact that it’s better to try for a big objective and fail than to try for something within your comfort zone. This, I think, was based on this quote from Peter...
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West Face of El Capitan
I had wussed out on the crux of pitch one and pitch two, but now I was chuckling and having a good time. I was at least 10 feet out from my last piece and fully engrossed in the improbably face...
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